It was 10 years ago when a friend said to me, “If you don’t ride a motorcycle when you are stationed in Europe you will regret it for the rest of your life.” Whether it was a fear of regret, or a low tolerance for arm twisting, a short time later I was riding my Harley Davidson in Italy. One of my favorite roads to travel on was Via Pedemontana Occidentale. Translated from Italian to English it means “Western Foothills Route”, although most Americans referred to it simply as "Mountain Road." The state highway is a two lane curved road that traces the southeastern edge of the Dolomites mountain range in the Fruili-Venezia Giulia region of northern Italy. Riding sections of this road was challenging. The lanes were narrow, and the other drivers and riders seemed to be always speeding. That taught me how to really stay focused, especially when navigating dark tunnels, single lane bridges, and crowded roundabouts. All in all, it’s an exhilarating ride that keeps you in the moment as you take each turn through various towns and villages. There were moments when I found myself in tune with the mountains and the rural Italian landscape in an extra special way.

46°04'41.6"N 12°35'56.8"E - A dirt road I often took from Aviano to Via Pedemontana Occidentale

From where I lived in Aviano it was a short distance to access Mountain Road. I would usually begin this specific route by heading north to the secluded town of Barcis. Lago Di Barcis looks like a scene straight out of a fantasy world with calm turquoise waters nestled in a picturesque mountain landscape. The color of the water is the result of the limestone rich minerals in the region’s geology. As you climb to almost 4,000 feet you immediately sense the cooler temperatures and the mountain air. In late spring, you could still see heavy snow capped mountains in the distance. And in summer, I would often spot people kayaking and large families walking the lakeside trails. After a brief stop to fuel up on espresso I back tracked through a series of tunnels to the historic town of Maniago.

Maniago is famous all over the world for its production of knives and cutting tools dating back centuries. Its a place where festivals and special events are always going on. The large Piazza (town square) was situated perfectly for easy parking and a close walk to historic sites, art museums, and unique stores in town. Maniago’s strategic importance originated in the 15th century when Nicolo di Maniago received permission from the Venetian magistrate to redirect water from the Colvera River for agriculture and irrigation purposes. The diversion of water turned into a power source for making metalworking tools. After years of perfecting blacksmith skills, Maniago became known for the best knife-makers in all of Europe, earning the nickname "City of Knives."

From Maniago, the Western Foothills Route continues southeast through tall corn fields and small villages in the shadow of the mountains to the west. I really enjoyed riding in this area. It was fun to explore the off-pavement detours through really tall corn fields. It was like riding through a labyrinth of dirt road passages. Further south, were the small towns of Dardago and Budoia where American service members and their families lived. The next town was one of my favorite places in the region, Polcenego. A charming medieval village known for its natural water spring that feeds the picturesque Sorgenti del Gorgazzo. Polcinego was a great waypoint to cruise through town, grab an espresso from a local bar and sit near the unique bodies of water that run through the city.

46°05'33.4"N 12°38'38.1"E - Corn fields between the towns of Maniago and Marsure

Continuing on Mountain Road from Polcinego, I would pass by family-owned vineyards, farms, and open fields to the east. The remaining foothills of the pre-alps were to the west. The hardest part about riding this section of Via Pedemontana Occidentale was to keep my eyes on the road and not on the incredible scenery. To the south was Caneva, one of the last towns on the Western Foothills Route before it intersects with the autostrada. I found the perfect lookout point perched in the foothills near the city centre to enjoy the view before heading back to Aviano. What I enjoyed most about riding in this area of Italy were the waypoints and the topography. What I liked least was “riposo”, an afternoon break when local businesses closed until dinner. No espresso, no bene.

45°59'43.3"N 12°27'28.4"E - Looking east from my turnaround point in Caneva

The total distance for this route is approximately 100 kilometers. An alternate route can be taken through the ski resort town of Piancavallo. This route is a shorter, more dramatic, and twisted road up and over the mountains from Aviano to Barcis. It should only be taken during the summer season due to snow covered roadways and tire chain requirements from fall to spring. I usually opted to take the long way around to extend the journey and visit all of my favorite stops. Some motorcyclists can look back and think of that first road when they experienced a deep connection with the surroundings, their motorcycle, and the ground beneath their tires. I had never experienced anything like it until then. And I am still riding motorcycles today because of it.

Via Pedemontana Occidentale

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