Geronimo Trail
For motorcycle riders in Arizona, the southeastern region can be unchartered territory. Thousands come to the Grand Canyon state every year to ride iconic roadways surrounded by flat-topped mesas, red rock formations and deep canyons. For those of us interested in remoteness, solitude and exploration, the southeastern corridor offers a unique riding experience with dramatic mountain scenery separated by high desert grassland valleys. Referred to as the “Madrean Sky Islands”, the area is home to 55 isolated mountain ranges that span Southeastern Arizona into New Mexico making it one of the best kept secrets for adventure riders. The trails go on for hundreds of miles through mixed terrain accessible to riders of all different skill levels. Rocks, sand, gravel, steep mountain passes with hairpin turns, and hard-packed dirt roads - it’s all here. One route in particular, Geronimo Trail, is a lost highway unlike any I’ve ever ridden before. When I traveled this route for the first time, I thought a lot about the independent spirit, fearlessness and resilience of the legendary Apache leader it was named after.
Portrait of Geronimo (Guiyatle), Apache. 1898
Geronimo’s life and legacy was tumultuous to say the least. A ruthless warrior, he fiercely defended Apache settlements against Mexican armies and western expansionism during the 19th century. Geronimo was considered a formidable foe by his enemies. Despite always being outnumbered he was notorious for his cunning and elusive tactics in battle. His rage was fueled early on in his life after a Mexican military attack on his village killed his mother, wife and children. In 1886, after numerous captures and escapes, Geronimo’s final surrender occurred at Skeleton Canyon near the border of Arizona and New Mexico putting an end to the Apache resistance after decades of fighting. He was exiled from the region and held as a prisoner of war in Florida, Alabama and later in Oklahoma. Geronimo carried heavy regret at the end of his life, notably stating: "I should never have surrendered. I should have fought until I was the last man alive."
So with a group of riding buddies and a lighter mindset, we set out on Geronimo Trail to retrace the steps of the legendary leader of the Ndendahe Apache people. We began the 80-mile stretch at the international border in Douglas, Arizona. We gassed up in Douglas since the next fuel stop is not until the end of the trail. It doesn’t take long before you experience solitude on this route. The backcountry dirt road winds through the San Bernardino Valley east along the international border. We established a lengthy following distance between each rider to avoid the heavy dust and dirt kicked up from the trail. At my furthest visible point I could see a small plume of dust from the rider ahead. The visual reassured me that I was headed in the right direction.
International Border Wall - Douglas, Arizona
Geronimo Trail
Soon enough the road turned primitive and the trail narrowed as it headed northeast toward the Peloncillo mountains in the Coronado National Forest. As we left the remote desert landscape behind, the environment completely changed to scenic rock formations and creek beds with oak trees and junipers around them. The trail twisted and gained elevation while scaling the mountainside creating steep drop offs on the way up to a scenic overlook. It was there when we noticed a historical marker dedicated to the soldiers of a Mormon Battalion. In 1846, they followed this trail en route to California during the Mexican War.
Peloncillo Mountain Wilderness
Mormon Battalion Memorial (And our lead rider’s 1988 BMW R100 GS Airhead).
From the historical marker, the trail continues northeast 40 miles to the isolated ranching and farming community of Animas, New Mexico. The road goes back and forth between dirt and mostly gravel surfaces cutting through wide open pastures. We passed a lot of cattle on this section of the trail so keep your eyes peeled in the rare instance a cow crosses your path of travel. Animas, meaning “lost souls” or “spirit,” marks the end of the 80 mile off-pavement section where our Husqvarna 350 needed to fuel up before we continued on.
To complete Geronimo Trail, head south on Arizona Highway 80 to return to Douglas. On the way back, you’ll pass by the Geronimo Surrender Monument at Skeleton Canyon, the very place where Geronimo surrendered and a final reminder of the trail’s namesake. We instead took a detour on an unpaved primitive road through the Chiricahua Mountain wilderness. The Chiricahua Mountains are the largest of Arizona’s Sky Island mountain ranges. At 6,000 feet above the surrounding valleys and a peak elevation of over 9,700 feet, it is a dramatic mountainous journey. And a route worth writing about in another motorcycle logbook entry.
Chiricahua Mountain Wilderness
The total distance of Geronimo Trail from Douglas to Animas is approximately 80 miles. When completed as a loop back to Douglas it is just over 200 miles. Plan on an entire day to complete this route. The best time of year to ride in this region is spring and fall. Geronimo Trail is generally considered an intermediate route due to the varied terrain, distance, and remoteness. The conditions of the trail can change quickly. Check weather and road conditions before traveling to and through this area by motorcycle. Cell service is non existent for the majority of this route so it’s best to bring along a satellite communicator and GPS navigation device, as well as a tire puncture kit and the necessary tools to do any trailside repairs. And don’t forget plenty of water.
To obtain elevation profiles, GPS coordinates, and more points of interest for this route and many others you can purchase a “Best Dirt Roads in Arizona - Arizona Adventure Series Map” from Butler Maps. Use the code “losthighways” to get a discount and support our website and the Adventure Rider Community.
Geronimo Trail is special for its remote and rugged terrain as well as its historical significance. The journey line has a complex and turbulent past that is palpable when you travel through it. Enjoy the adventure and ride safe.
Disclaimer: Each rider is responsible for checking the current road conditions and assessing their own skills to ensure safety. All routes are provided "as is" without any liability.